Map of our trip

Ok, BIG announcement here everyone.

After a cubic butt load of work on Tiffany’s part and a few weeks of strangling the wordpress though island internet servers until it gave us what we wanted,

We can now present to you,

In all it’s oceanographic glory,

Along with geo-locational hyperlinks for all our entries,

(Ooooooo how completely awesome does that sound!?!)

THE MAP

(no, not the chart.  It’s not to be used for navigational purposes.  Who in their right mind uses google maps to navigate?)

View CoastGuardCouple.com – Tiff and Greg Around the World! in a larger map

You can click on the green pins to find posts related to that area.

Our current location is denoted by a green arrow and star.

Grog Files Double Header

Ok so Tonga only has the one beer but really, anything they made after MAKA would have just paled by comparison anyway.  That beer was a-freaking-mazing!

We felt bad though, only having the one drink to share with everyone.  So instead of leaving y’all hanging we’re giving you our wine findings from our honeymoon in Tuscany, Italy.  This includes the wine we like so much we brought enough home to share with our wedding party!

As you can see, Greg’s sister was pretty happy about that.

So from South Pacific to Europe- this month is a grog files double-header of some of the best drinks this planet of ours has to offer!

Kingdom of Tonga

 

 

Italy

Something Worth Going Home For

Enroute San Antonio, TX

A few posts back we posed a question to you: when is it worth it to go home?

We told you there were several reasons why we came back but we didn’t go into a lot of details on our reasons.  Remember we didn’t just fly home from Auckland.  We left in Tonga a guaranteed free ticket to Australia on a private motor yacht to hop a flight to Auckland then onto the United States.  Why the heck did we decide to leave then?

To understand this story, we have to take you back to Bora Bora.  Shouldn’t all good stories ending in San Antonio involve a detour though Bora Bora?  We think so…

Bora Bora Mountain

Remember the Bora Bora business day we had where we made phone calls to, among other people, Greg’s old business partner?  Right well he had a little more than business to discuss.

Michael – “I’m getting married and I was wondering if you wanted to be the best man.”

Greg – “Oh you bastard…”

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The Upside to Colonization

Tongatapu, Tonga

Downside to never being taken over by a western power: There’s a lot of poverty in Tonga.

 Hut village on the edge of the capital town

 

There’s a lot of wealth too, it’s just focused on the royal family and a very small percentage of ultra-rich.  Driving around Tonga, like in Mexico, it was not unusual to drive past a grand palatial estate that had hovels as immediate neighbors.

 

 

Due to religious dedication and cultural tradition, churches and graveyards were typically the nicest areas in the towns

 

So you’re saying “Ok so yeah guys hey you notice we’re kinda having the same thing here back home?  What, you been under a rock the past few months?”

On a boat, actually, rocks don’t float.  And this is different though the overarching issue is the same.  What is the guaranteed minimum quality of life we as Americans, or as people, should have?  Isn’t that one of the core issues that universal health care, minimum wages, taxation, all of it ultimately comes to?  Tiffany’s brother Chris and Greg spent a few hours talking about “the right of internet access.”  It all comes down to what is the minimum acceptable standard of living that we can reasonably expect.  Where that line should be drawn.

In Tonga, there is no minimum we’re aware of.

 

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The many hazards of landlubbing

Tongatapu, Tonga

We ended up at this luau & Tongan food fest put on by a local entrepreneur in an Oceanside cave.  Just getting there reminded Greg of one of hazards of land bound life outside America…

Seriously, either there’s something in the North American water supply or all those growth hormones we keep feeding our cows and plants are rubbing off because back home Greg is able to pass though most passageways without being actively molested by the ceiling.  A feat he has a much more difficult time with everywhere else in the world.

Remember how in Vava’u we noticed that the men’s dances had a lot more movement than the women’s?  Yeah that’s because the men’s dances in Tonga were actually used for the teaching and practice of armed and unarmed combat.

 

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Pirates!

Tongatapu, Tonga

The capital island is all-in-all not as cool as Vava’u.  But hey, it ain’t bad and they got the awesome fried rice we mentioned in our last post, not to mention the royal estate.

 

And goats!  Goats they’ve got.

 

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China and the Mormons are buying the South Pacific

Tongatapu, Tonga

Did we mention that the ferry that we’re on replaced the one that sank with 27 people onboard a few months back?  The ship was unsafe and everyone died.

We found this out at about 1 am while chatting with the bridge team.

Our voyage was thankfully uneventful and we arrived the next day on the capital island of Tongatapu.

We spent a week there and first off: Best Chinese fried rice ever!  No idea why, makes little sense, but dude, you’re talking to two people who lived in the Bay Area for years so it’s not like we’ve not had good Chinese.  If you ever get to Tonga, go to the Chinese restaurant next to the hotel in the capital facing the water on the main shore road.

Speaking of friend rice, Tonga is also a perfect example of something we’ve been meaning to bring to your attention for quite some time now:  The Mormon church and the Chinese government are buying the South Pacific one village at a time.

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Back on the Surface

Vava’u, Tonga

Like we said, Vava’u is a cruising paradise and there are just some things you need a boat for:

Just in case you thought the water was nothing but frolicking baby whales and amazing coral, we found out that Tonga waters also play host to hundreds of jellyfish that “come up” at night.

 

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No Turkeys in Tonga!

Vava’u Tonga,

It’s an odd feeling to be in a place where the holidays you grew up with are not celebrated – or even recognized for that matter.  Also, the cruising world being what time becomes more…fluid, which is not made less complicated from the occasional forays over international date lines.  Short of it is the below conversation has actually occurred more than once:

Tiffany: Greg, what month is it?

Greg: Very funny.

Tiffany: No, seriously, what month is it?

Greg: uh……

Hey look, the weather’s consistently the same and for all intents and purposes we’ve been in “summer” ever since we left Mexico.  So, it can be confusing.  Keeping track of the month can be difficult enough so individual days we’ve pretty much all given up on.  The massive restrictions on Tongan business on Sundays are actually helpful because we all know which day Sunday is at least.

Also, there’s no Tonga Turkeys that we could find but we muddled through with a bit of island flair

 

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Swimming with Baby Whales

Vava’u Tonga,

Like Niue, Tonga is favored by the humpback whales as a combination bordello/nursery for the production and raising of young until they get enough blubber to survive the cold of Antarctica.  Unlike Niue, Tonga is one of about 3 places in the world where you can actually get in the water and swim with whales.  Yes, swim.  With whales.  How close you ask?  Well check out this video of a baby whale breeching 30 yards away from the swimmers!

 

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