Tag: French Polynesia

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Fatu Hiva, a French Polynesian paradise!

After what could easily be qualified as a “bumpy” night transit south, against the wind and the waves we find ourselves on the island of Fatu Hiva in French Polynesia.  (For our non-sailing friends, it’s called “bashing” when you drive into the wind & waves.  It sucks.  A lot.  This single fact alone actually explains why the entire international cruising community constantly sails to the west; in order to avoid bashing as much as humanly possible.)

We anchored in the Bay of Penises.  Now wait one second.  Before you get all uppity on me, look, don’t blame me that the Polynesian people came up with overly descriptive names for things, because that’s the freaking original Polynesian name, alright (well, the English translation at least).  It’s due to the rock towers that surround the bay.  I’m serious, look it up. (Tiff’s note – the name of the town is Hana Vave in Fatu Hiva)  For those of you too lazy to look it up, I explain the whole issue (inserting my own obvious bias and providing nice views of the anchorage, but not of the male reproductive system) here:

Having arrived at what arguably could be the most amazingly named place on the entire planet, we spent our two days here:

Firstly, by exploring the village. Being as the total island inhabitants number at about 650 split between two villages, this took about a grand total of 15 minutes.  We did however discover some precious little tidbits.  Such as, everyone eats coconuts here and I mean everyone.

Also, speaking of chickens and coconuts, you may want to think twice before you buy that “all natural” tropical coconut meat or coconut oil in the grocery store.

Polynesians do have cats and dogs…lots of cats and dogs, but they also keep other interesting animals on leashes.

We also ran into an interesting event going on as we arrived: all the school aged children were leaving.  Because of the minimal population, there are only grade schools on the island.  Anyone wanting a high school education has to travel by ferry 10 hours or so to Hiva Oa.  The nearest college is in Tahiti (again, about 2000 miles away.)  So kids who want an education spend a lot of time away from home from the 8th grade on.

– Greg

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Cruiser bikes and exploring Hiva Oa

By the second day of doing the 3 kilometer hike every day, Tiffany and I decided to break out the cruiser bikes.  No, not Harleys.  Cruising bikes have a slightly different meaning in the sailing world:

They look like clown bikes because they fold (the better to store inside a boat).  We managed to find our way down to the beach in Atuona where we encountered some beautiful corpses rotting in the sun…

…ran into the world’s largest rainstick

…observed the elusive Marquesan ninja jumping crab

…stumbled upon a Marquesan dance practice (they didn’t look like they needed practice though)

As a final note of the extreme distance we are from anything even closely resembling civilization, I leave you with Tiffany & Alison’s observation of some powerboats that made the same trip we did.  The prices they are discussing in the video reflect the amount of money each boat paid in US dollars to refuel with diesel fuel (which is cheaper than normal gas in case you didn’t know) at Hiva Oa after transiting from Mexico.

We were that far from the last gas station, just so ya know.

– Greg

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Hiva Oa, French Polynesia

We find ourselves in a very small anchorage within a medium sized island on a ridiculously large ocean.  This place is land of extremes.  To give you some perspective globally, the island of Hiva Oa (which is in French Polynesia) is around 3000 miles west of Mexico and about 2000 miles east of Tahiti…yes, it’s ok, until now I didn’t exactly realize there was anything out here either.  The population of the town of Autona is about 1000 and it’s the largest “city” for about 1000 miles…one of only 3 on this island (total island population is about 1,900…and it’s one of the most populated islands by a long shot)  “remote” does not come close to describing this place.  This video should give you some reference and a neat view of the mountain / volcano we’re right next to.

I don’t think it’s actually active anymore but I haven’t exactly checked either.  After our first day of arrival, we did a little sightseeing.  Ok, well, by “sightseeing” I mean “made the 3 kilometer walk to town a few times” but it counts right?

We also saw the famous outrigger canoes both old and new.

Apparently what was once their primary mode of sea transport has now evolved into their national sport.

A few days later we found that Tiffany and Alison have given up all hope on our fishing prowess and snuck off one morning at 6:00am to commit that most grievous of sins…buying fish. In a desperate bid to “make it up to us” they also bought us some local staples…breadfruit and baguettes.

Now you may think they left that early in the morning because Allan and I were asleep at the time.  That would be true but also because of the way time works here.  You see, in the Marquesas, everyone is awake around 6:00am to about 11:00am, then in what only can be described as a beautiful marriage of French culture (who take long lunches) and Island Time, the whole island effectively shuts down and they all take off work from 11:00am until 2:00pm.  Stores open (if they feel like it) again at (around) 2:00pm until about 4:30pm at which point everyone calls it a day.  Sun sets at about 5:30pm and everyone is basically asleep no later than 9:00pm.  These people lead fairly ideal lives, assuming you aren’t living at the anchorage.  As the ship is anchored 3 kilometers from town, this mid-day sabbatical means that we walk to town in the morning and back again in the afternoon in order to spend a whole day there.

Speaking of the anchorage, nestled there right next to us is irrefutable validation that people who play RPGs can actually be successful in life

…and yes, I paddled over, knocked on their boat and asked them.  They named their boat after the Chocobo, the giant flightless bird you ride around on in the Final Fantasy games, which is awesome!  I should also note they are a married couple (there are other women out there who play games Anna, I got her business card) and have two (two!) PS2 systems onboard and they report that, for anyone who is considering bringing their gaming consoles with them on their boat, the PS2 stands up to the rigors of seagoing life much better than the PS3 and the power drain is less than the power needed to run a TV onboard.  Needless to say I made it a point to become friends with these people.

-Greg

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Land Ho!

 

This video succinctly captures the mood of the moment.

Though we have spent weeks at sea and accomplished something that many dream of, I have to say on some levels I am sad to see this transit end.  Over the past 22 days I really have enjoyed my rituals of personal development (the ukulele, French and Bible) and I know that now we have hit land those rituals will be impossible to maintain in the face of beautiful beaches, amazing island hikes, delightful food and tropical paradise.  Don’t worry, I’ll cope 😉

While everyone else was working at dropping the anchor and launched the dingy, I was tasked to establish friendly relations with the natives who, in classic Polynesian fashion, came out to greet us.

After which we all hopped in the dingy and got our butts to land.

Our first stop?  We’re sailors, where do you think?  Two words: Money & Beer.

Which is a good thing we got money, cuz everything here is nutzo expensive!  To give you an idea, we got in during the morning and went into a burger joint for our first landside meal.  Tiff got a burger, I got a local “cheap” fish snack (poisson cru for you Frenchie speakers) and we each got 1 beer.  $30.00 US later we decided we’d finish celebrating on the boat.  The local beers were eight bucks each in a little snack shack!  Big upside to sailboats: you bring your own hotel with you.

…and yes Daniel, I survived, so no, you don’t get my hot tub or my Xbox 360.

– Greg

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