Tag: fly aweigh

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Surviving in Daniel’s Bay, Nuku Hiva, French Polynesia

I would have included this entry into the last one except that I noticed you all have been asking for / demanding / threatening bodily harm if I fail to deliver some sweet, sweet pics of the Islands.  So here you go:

Daniel’s Bay is picture perfect and just 5 miles from the largest town in the Marquesas, Taiohae Bay, by boat.  Apparently a season of “Survivor” was filmed here.  I can see why.

Just for a moment, let’s picture the crew chiefs in charge of filming the show and providing for the film crew, etc coming upon this place.

Crew chief 1: Wow this place is perfect!

Crew chief 2: Yeah, so remote, so tropical island in the middle of nowhere looking!

Crew chief 1: One problem, where we gonna go get a beer after we’re done filming for the day?

Local walking by: La bier et la pizza est huit kilometers pour ton bateau

(translation): Beer and pizza is 8 kilometers (5 miles) for your boat

Crew chief 1&2: oh really…

There see, even tossed in a little French lesson for ya.  Anyway, if you watched that show and were concerned about the well being of the competitors, know that they were about 30 minutes from a piping hot pizza, prepared in a stone pizza oven I might add, at any given moment.  This assumes 10 minutes for actually ordering and cooking the pizza.  I am concerned about the residual effects on the local community however…

Now as we have said before, there is an overabundance of coconuts, flowers, plants, bananas, and any tropical fruit or plant that you can really think of.  However, me telling you this just doesn’t convey the abundance these people have come to live with.  Tiffany was shocked to find that these people literally have more high quality fruit then they can possibly handle.

Let’s continue on with our exploration of the unrelenting awesomeness that is this flora of this island as we hike up to the much talked about waterfall on the island.

-Greg

coastguardcouple.com

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Boat Chores

As we had a short respite here in order to prepare for our wanderings into the 100 or some odd remote (even by Polynesian standards) islands of the Tuamotus, we decided to take care of some of the day to day chores that had built up.

Like, defrosting the freezer with our hair dryer, because apparently this is an important part of the cruising lifestyle

And hand carrying diesel fuel to fill the boat back up (last gas station was Hiva Oa, remember?)

We also bought food and in a French colony that means we acquired fresh baguettes.  I find that I have yet to devote the proper space in this blog to the natural wonder of the world that is real French bread.  As a native of Northern California I will go toe to toe with anyone who claims the superiority of French wine or cheese, but ladies and gentlemen, when it comes to bread these people have us beat.

Since we are talking of chores, I should take a moment and discuss showering.  Yes, showering.  Not that we didn’t shower before, it’s just that we didn’t shower for the amusement of the local athletic establishment prior to this anchorage.

–  Greg

coastguardcouple.com coast guard couple

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Polynesian Snorkeling

(Continued from previous post… Tahuata, French Polynesia)

As we continued to travel north along the island to our next anchorage, Hanatefau, reportedly the 3rd prettiest in Polynesia, we saw some spectacular waterspouts along the shoreline.

Upon arriving we found that the anchorage was indeed gorgeous.  Beautiful living reefs no more than 10 feet below the surface on each side of the anchorage, a pristine white sandy beach, crystal clear water with 30-50 feet of visibility, and gorgeous sunshine.  A Manta Ray swam right past our stern.  It was amazing.  Tiff started off the day helping out a fellow cruiser by free diving 30 feet straight down to get a dropped piece of equipment, which is a rather impressive feat.  (Actually, I started it by swimming some banana bread over to Rod and Elisabeth on Proximity, and when I swam back, I saw the Manta Ray fly past our boat! ~Tiff)

As thanks for helping them out, Michael and Gloria of Paikea Mist, a beautiful Beneteau Custom 50, (www.PaikeaMist.com) invited us out to go snorkeling with them.  Now, again, I am still learning how to use this camera well underwater.  That being said, there are some absolutely amazing parts of sea life just wandering around a few feet below the surface.  This is a taste of what I saw:

Unfortunately for us with this much unrestrained beauty below us, perfect warm, clear water all around us and a baking sun above us, it is quite easy to lose track of time.  We did just that, much to both of our extreme regret.

Let me tell you, it hurts.  It hurts a lot.  A LOT!  I took a shower, used a wash rag and some warm water by accident two days later and was laid out on the bed for a good hour writhing in pain as it felt like someone was jamming broken glass into my spine.  It took two ice packs and not moving much for the rest of the day to bring me back to a degree of normalcy.  Needless to say, a bottle of waterproof sunscreen has been permanently added to my ashore backpack.  But such are the risks for living in paradise.

Needless to say the tiny island of Tahuata was supremely amazing, well beyond any of our expectations or even our imaginations.

–          Greg

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Gringos and coconuts

(Continued from previous post… Tahuata, French Polynesia)

Finally, Tiffany made the discovery that lead us down the path of our second great adventure for the day: six coconuts laying about on the island.  Actually, they’re lying all over the place, you actually have to work to avoid tripping over them as you walk around.  However, it was Tiffany’s idea to bring them back to the boat and attempt to open them.  This next video illustrates a fairly simple Polynesian math equation:

1 coconut + 3 gringos + 1 dull machete = hilarity

I remind you all of that footage was from the first coconut.  Now, being Americans, we decided that the best way to proceed with the other coconuts is to both increase the number of tools at our disposal and increase the amount of power those tools put out.  This met with slightly better results…kind of.

Finally, we took a moment to regroup and figure out what we had learned.  Drawing out lessons from our experience so far as: “use a sharp blade over a dull one” and “take the protective husk off first” we refined our process and found some success with the third coconut.

–          Greg

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Stopping over in Tahuata, French Polynesia

Tahuata was going to be a quick, overnight anchorage on the way from Fatu Hiva to Ua Pou (all still in the Marquesa group of French Polynesia).  Hardly worth noticing, probably about a sentence or two in the next blog post.  We pulled into the first anchorage and set down for the night not expecting the quiet little island a stone’s throw from Hiva Oa to have much for us in the way of lasting memories.

…and then we woke up early the next morning to go swimming with the wild dolphins who had just popped by to say hi and handle some business.

That little comment by Tiffany at the end make you feel a bit voyeuristic?  Imagine being 15 feet from them and watching.  I was serious about them handling some business.

Now I apologize.  Dolphins are faster and more maneuverable than me in the water and I’m still getting used to the whole “filming rapidly moving objects in the water while bobbing like a cork on the surface and unable to see my display screen because it’s in a waterproof bag” thing.  I will endeavor to improve.  Please bear with me.

So after what was agreed on by all to be a most auspicious start to our day we thought it could not possibly get any better, but you’d think after our first shocker we’d stop underestimating this little island of nirvana-like joy.

We sallied forth onto land and found the picture perfect village of Hapatoni.  The whole island’s population is around 650 and this is the tiny village next to the big town, so I do mean small.

You may have noticed during that video that there was a streetlight above the street Tiffany and I were on.  This may lead you to the question, “Gosh Greg, how do they have power out there?”   Tiffany and I were curious so we took a look around and found the island (or at least the village’s) main and only power plant.

We also saw a really nice little local church.  Did I mention that French Polynesia is by overwhelming majority Catholic? They have a couple of assorted Protestant churches and, interestingly enough, one island that is predominantly Mormon.  Ha ha!  Yes, I learned French, I play the ukulele and I’m Catholic.  I’m almost a local!

–          Greg

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Ukeing it up

(Continued from previous post… Fatu Hiva, French Polynesia)

I wandered out into the village our last night in town with my trusty ukulele and by using equal parts luck and my limited knowledge of the French language, ended up finding a group of guys hanging out by their pickup truck playing music while their spouses served dinner to some other cruisers.  The words “restaurant” and “living room” are rather synonymous here.

Not being part of the dinner group I sat down with the guys and lent one of them my ukulele, which they in turn informed me they called a “Kamaka”.  Their ukulele is actually an 8 stringed instrument (4 paired strings) that sounds somewhat similar to a banjo, except with an island flair.

Ok, so you heard them at the end of the video, they wanted me to play.  Play my ukulele (kamaka, whatever) with a group of people who invented the instrument on a tiny little island in the middle of the South Pacific?  Can you say once in a lifetime brag-to-other-people’s-kids-because-I-don’t-have-any-of-my-own opportunity?  Heck ya!  Only one minor SNAFU.  You have to understand, I started learning this instrument a month ago.  I’m mostly self taught (though my friend Rod did give me a heck of a boost to get started and Tiffany assisted when I wasn’t too embarrassed to ask.) This is my first instrument…I can’t even read music! (Likely they couldn’t either, but that’s aside from the point) and this is exactly the second time I’ve played with someone else.  Notice I opted to not cover the previous little “incident” in the blog.

But there was no way I was letting this opportunity pass me by.  If these guys voted me off the island, then so be it, at least I’d swung the bat…or strummed the kamaka as the case may be.  Overall, I think I did OK.  I’m playing the lead (and speaking broken French) at the beginning.

There, it may not have been great but you know what, how may of you have been told by a Polynesian musician in response to your playing, “good music”?  That’s what I thought.  Obviously, I still need practice and for a guy who learned strumming about 2 weeks ago, I think I did OK.

We wrapped up the evening with the leader of the group, Serge, showing me that some songs are universal.  There was a little Eagle Scout inside me that was very happy to hear this,

Guess which song I’m learning next?

–          Greg

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Polynesian Mountaineering

(Continued from previous post… Fatu Hiva, French Polynesia)

Secondly, speaking of local kids, getting humiliated by the locals in an afternoon volleyball game. I feel no need to elaborate on this point.  They play this every day.  Some of the women also do what appears to be Jazzercise, so how’s that for Americanization?

Thirdly, hiking. Fatu Hiva is an amazingly beautiful place, though it is not without it’s dangerous predators

Assuming you have the wit and the skill to overcome these dangerous jungle creatures (oh yeah, and the heat – bring water, a lot of water) then you are in for a visual smorgasbord. With sights that easily rival Ireland in lush greenness, a 2 hour hike through to the waterfall in Fatu Hiva does not disappoint.

Not to mention, you can take your lunch with you and picnic at your own private 100 foot waterfall.  This is merely a bonus. (We didn’t go swimming because not only had we heard about the eels and the crawfish living in the water, there was some sort of scummy foam on the top of the pond.  Bummer 🙁 ~Tiff)

As Tiffany mentioned at the end of the video and as you might surmise about the topography of an island formed by a volcano, this place is steep.  We found out how steep when we decided the next day, without any idea what the heck we were signing up for, to hike to the top of one of the mountains.  We also found out why all the travel guide books say that only 4×4 vehicles are allowed in the Marquesas.

There were no flat parts, by the way.  After crawling up this mammoth for 3 hours and gaining a new appreciation for the Fatu Hiva roadwork department, we finally got to a pinnacle that provided the views we were looking for:

-Greg

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Fatu Hiva, a French Polynesian paradise!

After what could easily be qualified as a “bumpy” night transit south, against the wind and the waves we find ourselves on the island of Fatu Hiva in French Polynesia.  (For our non-sailing friends, it’s called “bashing” when you drive into the wind & waves.  It sucks.  A lot.  This single fact alone actually explains why the entire international cruising community constantly sails to the west; in order to avoid bashing as much as humanly possible.)

We anchored in the Bay of Penises.  Now wait one second.  Before you get all uppity on me, look, don’t blame me that the Polynesian people came up with overly descriptive names for things, because that’s the freaking original Polynesian name, alright (well, the English translation at least).  It’s due to the rock towers that surround the bay.  I’m serious, look it up. (Tiff’s note – the name of the town is Hana Vave in Fatu Hiva)  For those of you too lazy to look it up, I explain the whole issue (inserting my own obvious bias and providing nice views of the anchorage, but not of the male reproductive system) here:

Having arrived at what arguably could be the most amazingly named place on the entire planet, we spent our two days here:

Firstly, by exploring the village. Being as the total island inhabitants number at about 650 split between two villages, this took about a grand total of 15 minutes.  We did however discover some precious little tidbits.  Such as, everyone eats coconuts here and I mean everyone.

Also, speaking of chickens and coconuts, you may want to think twice before you buy that “all natural” tropical coconut meat or coconut oil in the grocery store.

Polynesians do have cats and dogs…lots of cats and dogs, but they also keep other interesting animals on leashes.

We also ran into an interesting event going on as we arrived: all the school aged children were leaving.  Because of the minimal population, there are only grade schools on the island.  Anyone wanting a high school education has to travel by ferry 10 hours or so to Hiva Oa.  The nearest college is in Tahiti (again, about 2000 miles away.)  So kids who want an education spend a lot of time away from home from the 8th grade on.

– Greg

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Cruiser bikes and exploring Hiva Oa

By the second day of doing the 3 kilometer hike every day, Tiffany and I decided to break out the cruiser bikes.  No, not Harleys.  Cruising bikes have a slightly different meaning in the sailing world:

They look like clown bikes because they fold (the better to store inside a boat).  We managed to find our way down to the beach in Atuona where we encountered some beautiful corpses rotting in the sun…

…ran into the world’s largest rainstick

…observed the elusive Marquesan ninja jumping crab

…stumbled upon a Marquesan dance practice (they didn’t look like they needed practice though)

As a final note of the extreme distance we are from anything even closely resembling civilization, I leave you with Tiffany & Alison’s observation of some powerboats that made the same trip we did.  The prices they are discussing in the video reflect the amount of money each boat paid in US dollars to refuel with diesel fuel (which is cheaper than normal gas in case you didn’t know) at Hiva Oa after transiting from Mexico.

We were that far from the last gas station, just so ya know.

– Greg

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Hiva Oa, French Polynesia

We find ourselves in a very small anchorage within a medium sized island on a ridiculously large ocean.  This place is land of extremes.  To give you some perspective globally, the island of Hiva Oa (which is in French Polynesia) is around 3000 miles west of Mexico and about 2000 miles east of Tahiti…yes, it’s ok, until now I didn’t exactly realize there was anything out here either.  The population of the town of Autona is about 1000 and it’s the largest “city” for about 1000 miles…one of only 3 on this island (total island population is about 1,900…and it’s one of the most populated islands by a long shot)  “remote” does not come close to describing this place.  This video should give you some reference and a neat view of the mountain / volcano we’re right next to.

I don’t think it’s actually active anymore but I haven’t exactly checked either.  After our first day of arrival, we did a little sightseeing.  Ok, well, by “sightseeing” I mean “made the 3 kilometer walk to town a few times” but it counts right?

We also saw the famous outrigger canoes both old and new.

Apparently what was once their primary mode of sea transport has now evolved into their national sport.

A few days later we found that Tiffany and Alison have given up all hope on our fishing prowess and snuck off one morning at 6:00am to commit that most grievous of sins…buying fish. In a desperate bid to “make it up to us” they also bought us some local staples…breadfruit and baguettes.

Now you may think they left that early in the morning because Allan and I were asleep at the time.  That would be true but also because of the way time works here.  You see, in the Marquesas, everyone is awake around 6:00am to about 11:00am, then in what only can be described as a beautiful marriage of French culture (who take long lunches) and Island Time, the whole island effectively shuts down and they all take off work from 11:00am until 2:00pm.  Stores open (if they feel like it) again at (around) 2:00pm until about 4:30pm at which point everyone calls it a day.  Sun sets at about 5:30pm and everyone is basically asleep no later than 9:00pm.  These people lead fairly ideal lives, assuming you aren’t living at the anchorage.  As the ship is anchored 3 kilometers from town, this mid-day sabbatical means that we walk to town in the morning and back again in the afternoon in order to spend a whole day there.

Speaking of the anchorage, nestled there right next to us is irrefutable validation that people who play RPGs can actually be successful in life

…and yes, I paddled over, knocked on their boat and asked them.  They named their boat after the Chocobo, the giant flightless bird you ride around on in the Final Fantasy games, which is awesome!  I should also note they are a married couple (there are other women out there who play games Anna, I got her business card) and have two (two!) PS2 systems onboard and they report that, for anyone who is considering bringing their gaming consoles with them on their boat, the PS2 stands up to the rigors of seagoing life much better than the PS3 and the power drain is less than the power needed to run a TV onboard.  Needless to say I made it a point to become friends with these people.

-Greg

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