The Upside to Colonization

Tongatapu, Tonga

Downside to never being taken over by a western power: There’s a lot of poverty in Tonga.

 Hut village on the edge of the capital town

 

There’s a lot of wealth too, it’s just focused on the royal family and a very small percentage of ultra-rich.  Driving around Tonga, like in Mexico, it was not unusual to drive past a grand palatial estate that had hovels as immediate neighbors.

 

 

Due to religious dedication and cultural tradition, churches and graveyards were typically the nicest areas in the towns

 

So you’re saying “Ok so yeah guys hey you notice we’re kinda having the same thing here back home?  What, you been under a rock the past few months?”

On a boat, actually, rocks don’t float.  And this is different though the overarching issue is the same.  What is the guaranteed minimum quality of life we as Americans, or as people, should have?  Isn’t that one of the core issues that universal health care, minimum wages, taxation, all of it ultimately comes to?  Tiffany’s brother Chris and Greg spent a few hours talking about “the right of internet access.”  It all comes down to what is the minimum acceptable standard of living that we can reasonably expect.  Where that line should be drawn.

In Tonga, there is no minimum we’re aware of.

 

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The many hazards of landlubbing

Tongatapu, Tonga

We ended up at this luau & Tongan food fest put on by a local entrepreneur in an Oceanside cave.  Just getting there reminded Greg of one of hazards of land bound life outside America…

Seriously, either there’s something in the North American water supply or all those growth hormones we keep feeding our cows and plants are rubbing off because back home Greg is able to pass though most passageways without being actively molested by the ceiling.  A feat he has a much more difficult time with everywhere else in the world.

Remember how in Vava’u we noticed that the men’s dances had a lot more movement than the women’s?  Yeah that’s because the men’s dances in Tonga were actually used for the teaching and practice of armed and unarmed combat.

 

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Pirates!

Tongatapu, Tonga

The capital island is all-in-all not as cool as Vava’u.  But hey, it ain’t bad and they got the awesome fried rice we mentioned in our last post, not to mention the royal estate.

 

And goats!  Goats they’ve got.

 

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China and the Mormons are buying the South Pacific

Tongatapu, Tonga

Did we mention that the ferry that we’re on replaced the one that sank with 27 people onboard a few months back?  The ship was unsafe and everyone died.

We found this out at about 1 am while chatting with the bridge team.

Our voyage was thankfully uneventful and we arrived the next day on the capital island of Tongatapu.

We spent a week there and first off: Best Chinese fried rice ever!  No idea why, makes little sense, but dude, you’re talking to two people who lived in the Bay Area for years so it’s not like we’ve not had good Chinese.  If you ever get to Tonga, go to the Chinese restaurant next to the hotel in the capital facing the water on the main shore road.

Speaking of friend rice, Tonga is also a perfect example of something we’ve been meaning to bring to your attention for quite some time now:  The Mormon church and the Chinese government are buying the South Pacific one village at a time.

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Back on the Surface

Vava’u, Tonga

Like we said, Vava’u is a cruising paradise and there are just some things you need a boat for:

Just in case you thought the water was nothing but frolicking baby whales and amazing coral, we found out that Tonga waters also play host to hundreds of jellyfish that “come up” at night.

 

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No Turkeys in Tonga!

Vava’u Tonga,

It’s an odd feeling to be in a place where the holidays you grew up with are not celebrated – or even recognized for that matter.  Also, the cruising world being what time becomes more…fluid, which is not made less complicated from the occasional forays over international date lines.  Short of it is the below conversation has actually occurred more than once:

Tiffany: Greg, what month is it?

Greg: Very funny.

Tiffany: No, seriously, what month is it?

Greg: uh……

Hey look, the weather’s consistently the same and for all intents and purposes we’ve been in “summer” ever since we left Mexico.  So, it can be confusing.  Keeping track of the month can be difficult enough so individual days we’ve pretty much all given up on.  The massive restrictions on Tongan business on Sundays are actually helpful because we all know which day Sunday is at least.

Also, there’s no Tonga Turkeys that we could find but we muddled through with a bit of island flair

 

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Swimming with Baby Whales

Vava’u Tonga,

Like Niue, Tonga is favored by the humpback whales as a combination bordello/nursery for the production and raising of young until they get enough blubber to survive the cold of Antarctica.  Unlike Niue, Tonga is one of about 3 places in the world where you can actually get in the water and swim with whales.  Yes, swim.  With whales.  How close you ask?  Well check out this video of a baby whale breeching 30 yards away from the swimmers!

 

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Nemo’s home

Vava’u Tonga,

Not only is Vava’u a cruiser’s paradise, the islands and barrier reef of this group make for some fantastic diving.  One does feed into the other.  In order to get to the dives sites you have to be able to traverse the water between the islands, which means hiring a dive boat or bringing your own.  This keeps a limitation on how many people actually get to the sites which in turn keeps the dive areas in pristine condition.

 

Underwater Tonga was unique in that among all the islands we’ve seen, in Tonga the coral really steals the show.  With colors including lime green, purple, red and every hue in between not to mention varying in size from the size of a hand to well larger than a human, the coral in Vava’u was a sight to behold.  Most of it was close enough to the surface and received enough sunlight to really bring out the beauty lying just below the surface.  The crystal clear water everywhere you went didn’t hurt either.

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Coast Guard Couple-ing

Happy Veteran’s Day!

We just found out through the magic of Facebook that Veteran’s Day has just passed us by.  Ah the magic of the internet, mothers and friends who still say thank you after all the years…thanks for that, by the way 😉

We’d hate for a day that is so important to both ourselves and so many of our friends to pass by unnoticed, and it just so happens we recently got a question on the blog from someone who is considering becoming a pre-veteran….  Look, she’s considering joining up ok?  But it’s Veteran’s Day so we had to stretch it here.  A little latitude if you please?

Brittany asks:

“I was hoping you could provide me with some advice…My fiancé and I are contemplating joining the Coast Guard together after we get married and while we know there are never any guarantees we want to put ourselves in the most likely situation to be able to stay together. I just graduated with my bachelors degree and he is very close to completing his. We are both at a cross roads, not really sure what to do next because we’ve been in school our whole lives. In addition, we are both the outdoorsy thrill seeking type so an office job really isn’t cutting it. I’ve been doing a lot of research on married military couples and have received completely mixed reviews; however what it seems to come down to is what you choose for your job and whether or not you become an officer. Both of us are very driven and I wouldn’t want us to have to sacrifice career advancement to stay together. Do have any suggestions as far as how to increase our chances of being able to stay together? Any particular jobs that offer more opportunities than others? How did you guys make it work?”

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The Friendly Islands

Vava’u, Tonga

Tonga is made of several island chains and we’re in Vava’u, the Northernmost group.

With over 30 anchorages all within a day’s sail of each other in addition to being partially enclosed by protective reef islands and some of the most gorgeous natural landscapes we’ve seen so far, it is no wonder Vava’u is a cruisers paradise.

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