The Friendly Islands

Vava’u, Tonga

Tonga is made of several island chains and we’re in Vava’u, the Northernmost group.

With over 30 anchorages all within a day’s sail of each other in addition to being partially enclosed by protective reef islands and some of the most gorgeous natural landscapes we’ve seen so far, it is no wonder Vava’u is a cruisers paradise.

Tonga’s isolated, untouched white sandy island beaches leave one with serious thoughts about a midlife career change to professional beach comber.

The natural wonders, along with the fact that Tonga is a crossroads for yachts coming and going from both Australia and New Zealand have led to the development of an established cruising community in Vava’u spearheaded by a few expats that now live in the local area.

They have a morning radio net here!  Do you remember the last time we had to wake up for these things?  MEXICO!  Even remember what these things are?  Just in case you don’t, click here for a reminder.

There is a local cruisers bar that serves as the de facto yacht club where everyone meets, hangs out, drinks Maka and has cruiser internet parties.  Again, in case you forgot this key part of cruising life visit our post about it.  Like Niue, the sailors are considered a major part of the tourist dollar so there is quite a lot of catering done to their wants in this country nicknamed “the friendly islands”.

Notice the differences in the dance?  The most noticeable change from French Polynesia is in the women’s dance.  In Tonga it is much more centered around moving the hands instead of the waist.

Oh as for “friendly islands” where did the nickname come from?  Well, Capt Cook (you remember Capt Cook, badass of the sea, right?)  He discovered Tonga for the British crown like he did basically 80% of the rest of the islands of the South Pacific.  When he and his men came ashore they were invited by the local chiefs (this was pre-king) to attend a party.

On an aside, Capt Cook and his men faced quite a wide variety of responses from the indigenous peoples.  Sometimes he and his men were encouraged, by the locals mind you, to have their way with their daughters.  Other times he was immediately attacked which is how he eventually died in Hawaii.  Had to hope for the best and prepare for the worst every time he spotted land.

Back to Tonga.  Cook and his men come ashore, went to this really nice party and returned to their ship fat, happy and totally oblivious to the fact that the whole thing was supposed to be a ruse to lure them onto land so the locals could kill them off.  (See, new type of welcoming!)  What went wrong according to the story is that the chiefs had a falling out on exactly how they were going to kill the sailors and before they could get themselves sorted the opportunity had passed.

So the ancient Tongans missed out on a chance to murder a group of English explorers in cold blood but hey, the upside is that their error earned them a nickname that has held for hundreds of years and can’t be bad for tourism.

For more on the many adventures of Captain James Cook, certified badass of the sea and the guy who discovered just about everything in the Ocean, click on “Badass of the Sea”

 

About the authors

Greg and Tiffany are traveling around the world on sailing yachts and keep a video blog of their (mis)adventures.  If sailing to Tahiti on a 44 ft sailboat, getting pooped on by seagulls, opening coconuts with dull machetes, sailing past tornadoes and ukulele Christmas carols are for you, then check them out at www.CoastGuardCouple.com!