So where do you get a pizza?

Avatoru, Rangiroa, Tuamotu, French Polynesia

The quest for sustenance is more complex than you might imagine.

First off, you may not recall that Greg is the ship’s only French speaker (and by “speaker” we mean a vocab of about 100 words…and about 7 verbs.)  So when he’s not around and often even when he is, obtaining food requires our fellow crewmembers to overcome certain linguistic hurdles.  Even on the few occasions where there is some level of reasonable verbal communications, cultural obstacles also seek to derail us.  Our attempts to surmount these challenges are met with varying degrees of success:

When repeated communications attempts fail or what happens more often is that our wallets can not bear the strain of eating out more than once a week without mortgaging a first born child (which, oddly enough, no one on this ship actually has) we must instead resort to our own dwindling Mexican shipboard supplies to sustain our appetites.  Which, after months of isolation from the necessities of life (like Trader Joe’s) those precious stores are beginning to run “a little thin” by our fellow crewmember’s standards.

Ok, you know, we have no idea how many cartons of rice milk they had onboard when we left Mexico.  We also never actually even saw where they stored all of this milk on the 44 foot boat that we have all been living on together for several months now.  Think about that for a second, we never saw the rice milk on the boat, and it’s not like it doesn’t take up some space.  This ship has more secret storage compartments than the Millennium Falcon.

We do alright though.  Mostly based on these meager and vastly depleted supplies we manage to cobble together rudimentary meals that we share with our fellow cruisers:

Alright, in all seriousness, for those of you planning on plying the seas of the South Pacific, cheap Mexican beer (Pacifico mostly) is a viable form of forex currency out here and the exchange rate is through the roof!  Those yellow cans are greeted with sighs of satisfaction and envious looks when a captain brings out a drink at dinner.  A sign of true friendship between cruisers is to share one’s “Mexican beer stash.”  Being as Hinano, the local brew, comes in at least $5 US per can at the grocery store, spending a few pesos on some Mexican beer is one of the smartest investments in ensuring popularity with your fellow cruisers that you can make before departing.

As for us?  Suppose we’ll just have to muddle through on Tahitian wine and French baguette pizza.

It wouldn’t be a French colony without…

Rangiroa, Tuamotu, French Polynesia

 

 

Look closely, there’s a spider in this plumeria (frangipani) flower!

There’s a winery on Rangiroa!  We’ve been told that it’s the only winery on a coral atoll.  The amazing thing is that they’re able to grow anything here at all.  Back in the day, the islanders struggled to grow their crops.  Plants had to be constantly fed with other food scraps and compost in the hopes that they would grow.  Why?  There’s no topsoil out here!  When you walk around in the “brush” of the island, you’re crunching on shells and coral.  Dirt is not native.  Sand is, but sand doesn’t contain minerals.  Only the extremely hardy plants can survive out here without help, and since when have you heard of grape vines as being extremely hardy?  Never, that’s when.  Even in California wine country they baby the grapes and make sure they get enough water and protection from the bugs and frost.

**20100527 – photo – Rangiroa (106).JPG**

We’d heard about this place quite a way back in our travels.  As we’ve been going, we’re specifically looking for wineries, because, um, we like wine 🙂  The guidebook for French Polynesia mentions it briefly, but we had a hard time believing that there would only be one winery in the entire country of French Polynesia.  I mean, come on… they’re FRENCH!  And usually where there’s one winery, there are about 50 more.  There’s bound to be more, so we’ll be keeping our eyes peeled!

 

Unfortunately the winery, Vin de Tahiti, was closed for the season when we arrived on Rangiroa (closed for the season!?!  We arrived in the middle of the tourist season!?!).   We did manage to get a nice guy to open the door for us and to answer a few questions.  Here’s their story:

The wine wasn’t spectacular, but it was pretty solid.  Definitely drinkable, but not something we’d go out of my way to find.  (oh, wait, too late 😉  The most awesome thing about it is that it’s the only Tahitian wine you can get.

The funniest thing about our wine tasting experience was the chicken that kept wandering into the bar.  Now, you would think we’d be used to it by now.  After months in Mexico hanging around a cat that would steal your drink when you weren’t looking and sailing around a bunch of small islands with free range chicken working the copra industry, we shouldn’t be surprised where they end up!  Maybe if the chicken had stayed outside the bar, we wouldn’t have thought it unusual.  Heck, the chicken could even have just gone inside the door and we probably wouldn’t have thought twice about it, even though we’re talking lagoon view, individual bungalows, high end hotel here!  No, we probably wouldn’t have been too excited about it.  But when you’re sitting in the bar of a high end hotel, and a scraggly chicken jumps up onto a table near you and basically orders a cold one, well… you notice it…

 

What’s your best pet/animal story?

Back in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, Mexico

Our second stay in La Cruz was one of the more special highlights of our trip so far. The reason for this is that due to a variety of circumstances it worked out that actually got to live in La Cruz for about 2 months. We rented a room, got to make some new friends, reconnected with our old sailing buddies, rode zip lines, saw whales, starred in movies and found out what happens when those of us used to navigating on the ocean attempt to find their way on land.

I also managed to find two new wines of the world for you: the first is Montevina, which was quite good and became my favorite while staying at Philo’s bar. It got to the point where I didn’t even have to ask, they just brought me a glass when I sat down. It’s good to be known 😉

And the second wine is another L.A. CETTO. This time the white. The red back in Mazatlan was much better.

While beating the bushes and dragging myself around the local bars of La Cruz for the sole purpose of the arduous task of finding local wines to report to you, I also managed to meet and make some new cruising friends. Several interesting conversations about this particular brand of travel lifestyle resulted, including some you may not have thought of. Especially since several of you all have decided to off and get yourselves hitched while I’m gone, here is a good travel trip for all the married (or soon to be married) ladies out there:

Of note, some of you may have noticed that sometimes I don’t have my wedding band on in the videos and that I don’t wear a wrist watch. No, this is not because Tiffany is currently travelling in Florida. It’s an old habit from my Coast Guard training where I was told dock lines grab rings and watches and use them as leverage to pull off your assorted limbs. This is one of the many reasons I use a pocket watch. (that and I don’t get a watch tan like Tiffany has).

Speaking of my lovely and long absent wife, after about two months separation there has been some contention among the local community whether or not she exists or is simply a convenient alibi for me to avoid having to pick up on women down in Mexico. Well, for all of those who doubted, I am happy to report that Tiffany is finally back from her travels in the Caribbean…with an unusual skin condition…

After looking around a bit, we decided to rent a room, get to know the area and possibly find a ship headed west towards the South Pacific that could use some crew. We picked a picturesque little bar / hotel and started exploring.

Keep following for the results of our explorations!

– Greg

Mazatlan, MX – 3rd

Mazatlan, MX

With the help of Mary-Ann on s/v OLD MOON we found another Mexican wine.

For my last entry on Mazatlan, I’ll focus on our transportation options. Yes, I realize that the topic of transportation would not typically be notable. Here it is.

Getting around presents some interesting alternatives. There are a lot of options for taxis but all of them are a little short on the safety department.

You could take the bus but be warned, you aren’t getting anywhere quickly on the Mazatlan bus system.

You’ll be happy to know that we made it to the local English speaking church on time (they have English speaking churches here…it’s a tourist city). The other transportation option is to rent a car; however, be forewarned that mode of transportation comes with its own inherent additional risks in this town thanks to the unique layout of the curbside parking. Gotta wonder what someone was thinking when they planned this out:

How about horses? Horses are safe, reliable, even fun and in Mexico apparently they are bilingual…

Ultimately though, it is the call of the sea that eventually reaches all of us. Well, all of us that sail on boats at least. I found a ride with Jake on s/v MALOOSE on an overnight transit down to San Blas. For those of you who have been keeping up with this blog, you will know of my long standing battle with Tiffany over the existence of the “supposed” green flash. This battle came to head under a beautiful sunset leaving the port.

Naturally, Tiffany was in another country when this happened.

– Greg